"This Was Never The Plan": Mountaineer Nirmal 'Nims' Purja On Why He Chose PoK Peak

Renowned mountaineer Nirmal 'Nims' Purja and his team died in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan-Occupied Jammu and Kashmir. Purja was attempting to become the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without supplemental oxygen.
Renowned mountaineer Nirmal Purja, popularly known as 'Nimsdai', has died after an avalanche hit Broad Peak in Pakistan-Occupied Jammu and Kashmir, where he was leading an expedition, on Thursday."Today, it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive," his company, Elite Exped, announced in a statement on Saturday."Today, we mourn not only Nims, but every life lost in this tragedy, including his trusted climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa. Our deepest thoughts, prayers and heartfelt condolences are with their families, friends and loved ones. No words can ease the pain of this unimaginable loss, and we ask that everyone respects their privacy as they grieve," it added.READ | Elite Mountaineer Nirmal 'Nims' Purja Killed In Avalanche On PoK PeakIn his last post on X on July 27, Purja - a British-Nepali climber who held many records and was also awarded a Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) - had explained that the climb to Broad Peak wasn't planned."The Mission Shifts. The Compass Holds. This wasn't planned. The Hattrick project was the focus because it carried a bigger mission. But opportunities don't scream: they whisper to those already working in silence... Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits. That's when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I'm here, only one remains - 'Cho Oyu'. Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen."Chasing that dream, Purja set off on what would become his last expedition."Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it's 100%. Always has been. Always will be," he wrote.There were hopes that Purja would make it back alive even after the avalanche on Thursday, as his tracking device showed movement.READ | Legendary Mountaineer's Voice Message To NDTV's Vishnu Som Hours Before He VanishedInitially, rescue teams believed he was alive, conscious, and awaiting rescue. As the hours wore on, it became clear that the chances of finding any survivors from the Broad Peak avalanche were almost nil. Personnel involved in the search-and-rescue operation said their worst fears were confirmed when a drone flown from Base Camp spotted what appeared to be the bodies of four climbers, Nirmal Purja "Nimsdai," Kili Pemba Sherpa, Nima Sherpa, and Wang Zhong, just below Camp I on the Concordia side of the mountain.The same search team also reported that all 10 climbers caught in the avalanche may have died on the Concordia side.Illustrious LifeNirmal Purja, MBE, was one of three record-breaking mountaineers, along with Mingma David Sherpa and Tejan Gurung, who ran Elite Exped, which specialises in delivering tailored guiding experiences on the world's highest mountains.Born in Nepal, Nimsdai had a distinguished 16-year military career, spending six years in the elite Gurkha regiment, and 10 years with the UK Special Forces (SBS).Purja shot to global fame in 2019 after scaling all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 metres in under seven months, a feat that set a world record. He also collaborated on a Netflix documentary, '14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible', on the feat. His climbing career began almost by chance: during a 2012 trek to Everest Base Camp, he chose to press on to the summit rather than turn back as originally planned.The mountaineer also faced criticism and allegations, but did not let anything shake his passion. He addressed these in his last post as well."Here's the secret I've carried through every expedition: I never competed with anyone else. My only battle was against the man I was yesterday. Every single day, pushing my own limits. Because the moment you look sideways: at what others are doing, saying, achieving: you drift off your compass. Your heading is YOURS. Guard it fiercely," he wrote."They criticised me when I climbed the 14 without O's during Project Possible. If you haven't seen what that took, watch 14 Peaks on Netflix. That film is the unfiltered truth. I was there doing multiple rescues of climbers left behind by other expeditions, raising the funds myself, leading from the front, fixing our own lines, dealing with the Shishapangma permit with China, being at hospitals for my mum's operation and so much more. And now? Now I'm heading for the double without oxygen: triple in total. The noise hasn't stopped. I just stopped listening," Purja emphasised.
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